Look at my wood (woodworking) part deux

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Limpy

Banned
Oct 20, 2015
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That's mainly going to be what I'm doing because I love working with fiberglass and epoxy in general so we're milling slabs, curing, and then we're going to fuck some things up and hope that I can at least salvage it with epoxy haha .
That’s awesome! Post pics when you can.
 

Grateful Dude

TMMAC Addict
May 30, 2016
8,925
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L @A cat

I have an old piece of furniture (large chest with flip up lid) that my grandfather made for me when I was born that I want to refinish, or at least revive. I grew up watching my grandfather build stuff for us, and he almost exclusively used danish oil for finishes, so I want to try to keep this refurbish to the way he did it and I don't want to change the piece ,just clean it up and renew.

Applying danish oil is pretty easy, and I think I will wet sand (with the oil) between coats (600 grit sandpaper?) for probably 3 coats. I have that part under control.

But my grandpa used to also apply paste wax as the last step, and I've never done that part on wood finishes. Seems kind of pointless to me, but I dunno.

Is it as simple as applying and wiping/buffing off? Do I use an electric buffer, or just hand buff? Is the paste wax a waste of time?

Do you ever use DO, or have any additional tips?
 

Grateful Dude

TMMAC Addict
May 30, 2016
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Mess with epoxy and wood sometime.
I've been wanting to try this for a while now, but I haven't come up with the right project yet. I got fascinated but those river tables or whatever they call them, and I watched a bunch of shit on YouTube about all the different things you can do with epoxy. I gotta try that at some point!
 

Limpy

Banned
Oct 20, 2015
14,842
27,929
L @A cat

I have an old piece of furniture (large chest fish flip up lid) that my grandfather made for me when I was born that I want to refinish, or at least revive. I grew up watching my grandfather build stuff for us, and he almost exclusively used danish oil for finishes, so I want to try to keep this refurbish to the way he did it and I don't want to change the piece ,just clean it up and renew.

Applying danish oil is pretty easy, and I think I will wet sand (with the oil) between coats (600 grit sandpaper?) for probably 3 coats. I have that part under control.

But my grandpa used to also apply paste wax as the last step, and I've never done that part on wood finishes. Seems kind of pointless to me, but I dunno.

Is it as simple as applying and wiping/buffing off? Do I use an electric buffer, or just hand buff? Is the paste wax a waste of time?

Do you ever use DO, or have any additional tips?
It kind of is pointless since it will basically sit on top of the oil. Ya we use danish oil all of the time. There’s some really good products out there I’ve found over the years that are great for finishing furniture as well like Osmo oil and Odies wood butter.

What’s cool about Osmo top oil is that it actually puts a wax resin into the wood that makes it waterproof and stain proof. If someone put a cold drink on the top and it created a wet ring it just wipes off. You don’t have to put a clear hard finish on the top after.

Danish oil is more of a top oil that penetrates the wood but doesn’t build up like a resin finish. I actually prefer the look of the tung oil finish like danish oil over the resin finish like Osmo but I like the security knowing the piece is basically waterproof. Because we do lots of tables and countertops we use Osmo a lot more often.

Take a picture when you’re done. Give me tips too, I’m hardly an expert.
 

Limpy

Banned
Oct 20, 2015
14,842
27,929
I've been wanting to try this for a while now, but I haven't come up with the right project yet. I got fascinated but those river tables or whatever they call them, and I watched a bunch of shit on YouTube about all the different things you can do with epoxy. I gotta try that at some point!
It’s really fun and really scary. If you ever pour a river table make sure you put a bead of silicone on the under side so the wood is sealed where the epoxy flows. If your wood isn’t totally flat it leaks everywhere without the bead.

Another tip if you are filling voids is to take some sort of plastic finish like a polyurethane and brush it in the void and let it dry. That seals the void so air can’t come up from the bottom. I poured some epoxy into some voids without doing that, I used a torch to get rid of the bubbles and it was crystal clear. The next morning I looked at the piece and there were bubbles in the epoxy again because air was coming through the underside of the void. The tiniest little space, too small for even the epoxy to run through caused air to flow through and ruin it.
 

Grateful Dude

TMMAC Addict
May 30, 2016
8,925
14,261
It kind of is pointless since it will basically sit on top of the oil. Ya we use danish oil all of the time. There’s some really good products out there I’ve found over the years that are great for finishing furniture as well like Osmo oil and Odies wood butter.

What’s cool about Osmo top oil is that it actually puts a wax resin into the wood that makes it waterproof and stain proof. If someone put a cold drink on the top and it created a wet ring it just wipes off. You don’t have to put a clear hard finish on the top after.

Danish oil is more of a top oil that penetrates the wood but doesn’t build up like a resin finish. I actually prefer the look of the tung oil finish like danish oil over the resin finish like Osmo but I like the security knowing the piece is basically waterproof. Because we do lots of tables and countertops we use Osmo a lot more often.

Take a picture when you’re done. Give me tips too, I’m hardly an expert.
Thanks man, appreciate the info. Sounds like we're on the same page about the wax. I think my grandpa just used it because he liked the sheen.

That Osmo sounds badass. Wonder if it works on bamboo? I put some bamboo butcher block countertops in my kitchen, and I had to experiment with different finishes. It's really dense and not as porous as wood so it doesn't allow much penetration (giggity). Doesn't take stain well, etc. A lot of people use some kind of mineral/beeswax on bamboo but that's a pain in the ass, and you have to redo it often if you use your counters. I like more waterproof, especially in my kitchen.
 

Grateful Dude

TMMAC Addict
May 30, 2016
8,925
14,261
It’s really fun and really scary. If you ever pour a river table make sure you put a bead of silicone on the under side so the wood is sealed where the epoxy flows. If your wood isn’t totally flat it leaks everywhere without the bead.

Another tip if you are filling voids is to take some sort of plastic finish like a polyurethane and brush it in the void and let it dry. That seals the void so air can’t come up from the bottom. I poured some epoxy into some voids without doing that, I used a torch to get rid of the bubbles and it was crystal clear. The next morning I looked at the piece and there were bubbles in the epoxy again because air was coming through the underside of the void. The tiniest little space, too small for even the epoxy to run through caused air to flow through and ruin it.
More good info, thanks bud. I need to come up with a small scale project just to fuck around with it and figure it out. I've seen a ton of cool shit online that folks have made. Most of all, I like using blow torches :D

When it's time to refinish my kitchen tops, I may look into epoxy. I like the durability and waterproofing of it.
 

Hauler

Been fallin so long it's like gravitys gone
Feb 3, 2016
45,412
57,814
Planer or jointer, which should I buy first?
Planer. 100%.
Jointers are convenient but you can accomplish the same results with a table saw. For straightening boards anyway - which is all I ever use mine for.
 

Hauler

Been fallin so long it's like gravitys gone
Feb 3, 2016
45,412
57,814


This is a walnut Island top we did. We had to make the moulding for the front and try not to burn it when we routered it.

Turned out good. We oiled the top and took it to be sprayed with lacquer then delivered to the customer. This is just after it was wiped down after oiling.

I should take pictures of all of the raw wood we have in the store. There’s some really weird shit we’ve collected. There’s about 150 live edge slabs as well.

My job is actually to sell doors and mouldings, that pays the bills and being a wood nerd keeps me interested. Selling doors is fucking boring.
Love the look of that walnut.
Nice piece.
 

ShatsBassoon

Throwing bombs & banging moms
First 100
Jan 14, 2015
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More good info, thanks bud. I need to come up with a small scale project just to fuck around with it and figure it out. I've seen a ton of cool shit online that folks have made. Most of all, I like using blow torches :D

When it's time to refinish my kitchen tops, I may look into epoxy. I like the durability and waterproofing of it.
Epoxy is bloody pricey. Fun to work with though
 

Simpleman

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Jan 15, 2015
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Planer for sure. A jointer is great but we hardly use the one we have. If you really get into wood working you can save what your planer costs in a matter of years by buying rough stock wood rather than finished dressed boards. To give you an idea, I sell 1x6 maple for $5.99 per foot so an 8 foot board costs $48 plus tax. I sell rough maple boards for $4.99 per board foot (kinda like square foot). A six inch board, eight feet long would be four board feet and would cost $20 plus tax. It’s less than half the cost.

Depending who you talk to you could argue that a jointer should be used before planing a board anyways. To me, planers are a necessity for what we do and a jointer is not. Jointers flatten boards and straighten edges. I own a great table saw and a Festool tracksaw which IMO makes a jointer almost pointless. Not everyone can afford that and I sell those items so I got promotional discounts. I could never afford to buy 90% of what we have.

Now I’m blabbering.

I’d recommend a planer. Simpleman @Simpleman what’s your opinion?
Thats great info! I honestly don’t own either of those . I will usually just pay a lumberyard to do it for me . It usually saves me a lot of time and energy. IF I were to buy something it would definitely be a planner. Somebody pointed out earlier that a jig and a tablesaw can get you pretty far and pretty close to what a jointer can do anyways . FYI Im nowhere near the level of L @A cat. I’m always very impressed with what he posts here .
 
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Onetrickpony

Stay gold
Nov 21, 2016
14,042
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This is nothing crazy when it comes to wood working but it was a fun project for my son and introduced him into quite a few different tools.

 

Ministry of Silly Walks

came in like a wrecking ball
First 100
Amateur Fighter
Jan 15, 2015
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I've been wanting to try this for a while now, but I haven't come up with the right project yet. I got fascinated but those river tables or whatever they call them, and I watched a bunch of shit on YouTube about all the different things you can do with epoxy. I gotta try that at some point!
Its fun, and gives the piece so much depth.
 

Simpleman

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Jan 15, 2015
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looks great
what is the thing in-between monopoly

did you paint the legs grey?

Love your green chair also
Its a leaf that can be used for card games (most likely cards against humanity). Black is for cards. White section is dry erase board that wife made with her silohette machine. Legs are stained grey. Chairs are original from Comiskey park.
 
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Simpleman

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Made a Wonder woman twist pen for the wife. Going to make a few rifle ones soon. Probably going to be wood and not acrylic though.
 

Hauler

Been fallin so long it's like gravitys gone
Feb 3, 2016
45,412
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Made a Wonder woman twist pen for the wife. Going to make a few rifle ones soon. Probably going to be wood and not acrylic though.
These are cool as shit dude.
I'd love to hear your process for making this pens.
 

Simpleman

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These are cool as shit dude.
I'd love to hear your process for making this pens.
I will try and take pics of the next one I make. Most if it is a kit that I just need to put together. The body (part that I shape) is the most detailed.