It’s always been a liability. This is why I had a kid at 19 ?It occurs to me that your tool might be a liability at this point.
It’s always been a liability. This is why I had a kid at 19 ?It occurs to me that your tool might be a liability at this point.
yep. I grew up on a farm and rebuilt my first 350 when I was 12.I have about $30k worth of tools in my garage and I’m a certified master tech... I still bring my vehicles to someone else to change the oil
for a new from the factory motor, I'd change at the manufacturer interval and just keep my foot out of it for the first 500 miles...ideally take a trip where I'm not going up and down mountains or doing a lot of passing.Depends upon the model. In a high performance car, I would say yes, irrelevant on manufacturer recommendations. Most engines are built to go with manufacturer specs, so if it's a normal car, not high performance, not being driven hard, I'd allow the dealership to do what they do for the first oil change just to make sure it's on record in case of any issues in the future with warranty claims. Most dealerships at a bare minimum cover the first oil change free of charge, so it's not like you're paying more for an oil change. If you have a car with free maintenance for the warranty period like a BMW, I'd do all maintenance at the dealership.
Same reason I bring my guitars to a local luthier. He's an acquaintance and does it for a living. Strings and such is one thing but I'm not about to start doing stuff that can result in permanent damage to save a buck.I have about $30k worth of tools in my garage and I’m a certified master tech... I still bring my vehicles to someone else to change the oil
What if I told you it's not for a car or truckfor a new from the factory motor, I'd change at the manufacturer interval and just keep my foot out of it for the first 500 miles...ideally take a trip where I'm not going up and down mountains or doing a lot of passing.
on a high performance rebuild, it's a whole other thing. light oil for 20m on the stand, varying RPMs slowly in the power band, then change to regular oil, and get it on the road. On the road, keep the load light until it's at temp, then drop the gear and get the RPMs to your peak power point, hold it for 60 miles, then engine break back down to idle. Keep doing that and after a few pulls you'll get a little hiccup and puff of smoke from the exhaust. Rings are seated and you can start rompin.
This reminded me I need to take my PRS in to get restrung and have the action set correctly.Same reason I bring my guitars to a local luthier. He's an acquaintance and does it for a living. Strings and such is one thing but I'm not about to start doing stuff that can result in permanent damage to save a buck.
Wait, I don't remember you having a PRS before.This reminded me I need to take my PRS in to get restrung and have the action set correctly.
This is an entire post with nothing in it but utter nonsense.for a new from the factory motor, I'd change at the manufacturer interval and just keep my foot out of it for the first 500 miles...ideally take a trip where I'm not going up and down mountains or doing a lot of passing.
on a high performance rebuild, it's a whole other thing. light oil for 20m on the stand, varying RPMs slowly in the power band, then change to regular oil, and get it on the road. On the road, keep the load light until it's at temp, then drop the gear and get the RPMs to your peak power point, hold it for 60 miles, then engine break back down to idle. Keep doing that and after a few pulls you'll get a little hiccup and puff of smoke from the exhaust. Rings are seated and you can start rompin.
Yea. SE AngelusWait, I don't remember you having a PRS before.
Ah, yes. I always forget that they make acoustics.Yea. SE Angelus
A friend of my gf and I lost her husband that was in a band. She sold off his Custom 22, has his Custom 22 Piezo at her house, and want so to give me his SE Custom 24 Poplar Burl with a Line6 bc I’ve been learning so much and it’s not getting played ?Ah, yes. I always forget that they make acoustics.
I'm sorry to hear that, bro.A friend of my gf and I lost her husband that was in a band. She sold off his Custom 22, has his Custom 22 Piezo at her house, and want so to give me his SE Custom 24 Poplar Burl with a Line6 bc I’ve been learning so much and it’s not getting played ?
I didn’t personally know him. We moved into the neighborhood at the same time they did, but didn’t meet until after he passed bc our kids play togetherI'm sorry to hear that, bro.
except it works.This is an entire post with nothing in it but utter nonsense.
How about the guy who makes arbitrary declarations is the one to provide the proof?prove it.
quick google...No, it doesn't.
breaking in factory engines has been nonsense for a long time.How about the guy who makes arbitrary declarations is the one to provide the proof?
Breaking in engines has been nonsense for a long ass time.
They aren't even following your engine break in procdeure, lol.quick google...
Complete Engine Break In Procedure | MAPerformance
Our complete engine break in procedure checklist will have you doing it right the first time every time! Read below to learn more.www.maperformance.com
"
After the first start, let the engine run for 20 minutes at varying speeds between 2000 and 3000rpm. It is critical to vary the RPM's for proper camshaft break-in and to ensure the piston rings and moving components are properly broke-in. After the first 20 minutes, inspect for oil, coolant, or fuel leaks. If all is good, take it on the road. Driving periods vary based on application, but no less than 30 miles is recommended. Head off to a low traffic area, where you can do long pulls at low load followed by engine braking back down to idle. This process is called "Vacuum Pulls" and helps seat the piston rings. Repeat no more than 50 miles and avoid open throttle and full boost scenarios. Watch your gauges like a hawk, and make any adjustments to your AFR's at this point.
After the initial break in period, you'll change your oil and then repeat the process until you've hit the 500 mile mark. After this, your engine will be fully broke-in."
Call them up and call them clowns.
Proper race engines aren't broken in either, sexy pants.breaking in factory engines has been nonsense for a long time.
Real Scotsman with your 'proper race engine'.Proper race engines aren't broken in either, sexy pants.
they're not. the say don't go over 50 miles and use light oil. But I was taught to use 'break-in oil' and then switch to heavier oil and go longer...the principle is the same, you're nit-picking.They aren't even following your engine break in procdeure, lol.