Try butt plugs rather than race plugs.
Ah, who am I kidding? I forgot who I was talking to! You know.
I'll try to cure your vehicle ailments. Ask here...
- Thread starter b00ts
- Start date
Ah, who am I kidding? I forgot who I was talking to! You know.
I tried putting a big black rubber fist in the exhaust but my car just fired it out like a champagne bottle being opened. Im at a loss as to what to do
2007 Tundra. The brake light indicator on the dash has come on a couple times while driving. My e-brake is a pedal that you engage and then push again to disengage. It doesn't feel loose when disengaged (had this problem on my Touareg) and I don't remember this happening prior to towing the trailer.
Factory installed tow package but the wiring for the trailer brakes was all f'd up and I was unaware I needed an aftermarket brake controller. I'm wondering if somehow the issues I had with the trailer brakes have caused some issue with the truck or is the 7-way connector a one way deal only?
I ordered a brake controller and wiring harness, installing tomorrow before I go pick up the trailer, could this potentially resolve any hiccups? This is assuming e-brake has any relationship with truck -> trailer braking connection.
Factory installed tow package but the wiring for the trailer brakes was all f'd up and I was unaware I needed an aftermarket brake controller. I'm wondering if somehow the issues I had with the trailer brakes have caused some issue with the truck or is the 7-way connector a one way deal only?
I ordered a brake controller and wiring harness, installing tomorrow before I go pick up the trailer, could this potentially resolve any hiccups? This is assuming e-brake has any relationship with truck -> trailer braking connection.
First thing, check your brake fluid.
Not exactly a fitting question for this thread but since so many people are talking about cars/trucks in one spot I may as well leech off of it for some ideas.
I need a second vehicle. Against my better judgement I want to somehow be cheap as hell, get something decent, and put a shitload of highway miles on it. I don't really care if it only lasts a year or two if I only spend $2500/$3000 on it and it gets me the 100,000 miles that I'll put on it in that time frame.
So... Any recommendations? Decent gas mileage would be nice but even 23/25 on the highway is fine. It needs a decent amount of space in case I need to put a laser in it but my laser will fit in just about any hatch, wagon, or suv. I can put it in most sedans as well provided the doors open enough.
I need a second vehicle. Against my better judgement I want to somehow be cheap as hell, get something decent, and put a shitload of highway miles on it. I don't really care if it only lasts a year or two if I only spend $2500/$3000 on it and it gets me the 100,000 miles that I'll put on it in that time frame.
So... Any recommendations? Decent gas mileage would be nice but even 23/25 on the highway is fine. It needs a decent amount of space in case I need to put a laser in it but my laser will fit in just about any hatch, wagon, or suv. I can put it in most sedans as well provided the doors open enough.
My vote for something in that range that's quality will be a Jeep Cherokee, imo. Guy at work has one that he paid about that for and he's only had to do routine maintenance on it, including belts and things like that. He thought the fuel pump went out, but I found some sketchy wiring and fixed it. He drives about 30 miles to work and it's held up for the last year or so.
Got one for anyone who wants to answer...
2002 Silverado Z71. 5.3 liter.
The fan for my HVAC only works on speeds 4 and 5. Setting it at 1, 2 or 3 doesn't even turn the fan on. It's been like that for about 6 years, but now the blower is starting to fluctuate when I have it on one of the higher speeds. Completely random. It will be blowing hard, then it will slow down a bit (not much, but it is audible), then after a short moment (3 or 4 seconds) it will kick back in again. Again, it doesn't really bother me too much but if this is a sign that my blower motor is about to go out completely I'd like to deal with it before it decides to take a shit on a super cold morning.
2002 Silverado Z71. 5.3 liter.
The fan for my HVAC only works on speeds 4 and 5. Setting it at 1, 2 or 3 doesn't even turn the fan on. It's been like that for about 6 years, but now the blower is starting to fluctuate when I have it on one of the higher speeds. Completely random. It will be blowing hard, then it will slow down a bit (not much, but it is audible), then after a short moment (3 or 4 seconds) it will kick back in again. Again, it doesn't really bother me too much but if this is a sign that my blower motor is about to go out completely I'd like to deal with it before it decides to take a shit on a super cold morning.
Yes, lol. But had it happen to me before.Thanks. Wait a second...aren't you a girl?
@Shinkicker with the quickness. And I agree, I had the same/similar thing happen in my last truck. I want to say the resistor was only like $30-40. Easy fix, cheap part. Get to work
@Alco Hauler!
It's raining and my truck doesn't fit in my garage.
I will buy it from you. Then you won't have to worry with it. LolIt's raining and my truck doesn't fit in my garage.
My truck? It's not for sale. Love my truck.
Almost 220,000 miles and still going strong.
I have the same issue with my garage. Fookin bullshit. Who in the hell wants a small garage? I wish my garage was about 12' wider and longer. Then I could do some real cool shit. Or, it would just become a huge mess. But either way, my next house will have a bigger garage. Or a detached shop.It's raining and my truck doesn't fit in my garage.
Yup. Going to be building a house in the next year or so. The garage space will be ample.
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee. 5.7 Hemi.
AC isn't cooling.
Compressor clutch won't engage. I'd like to jump power to it to see if the compressor is actually working and it's the clutch or a relay that's my issue.
I know you can sometimes force it to come on by using a paperclip at the fuse box, but I can't find anything on the internet that tells me exactly what to jump.
Edit : I already tried to jump the relay for the AC Clutch with the Horn. That isn't the issue.
AC isn't cooling.
Compressor clutch won't engage. I'd like to jump power to it to see if the compressor is actually working and it's the clutch or a relay that's my issue.
I know you can sometimes force it to come on by using a paperclip at the fuse box, but I can't find anything on the internet that tells me exactly what to jump.
Edit : I already tried to jump the relay for the AC Clutch with the Horn. That isn't the issue.
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Run a jump wire from hot post of battery to compresser clutch.
Do you have a testing light? Do you have power at the ac clutch when you turn the ac on?
I spent about an hour getting that fucking connection apart. I hate electrical connections on cars. HATE THEM. Hard to get to, and they put these stupid fucking locks on them. Assholes. Anyway - that's what I was going to do but then I found out my tester isn't working anymore. FML. I can bring one home tomorrow from work.
My beer intake is starting to outpace my judgement. I'm thinking about hooking the hot wire to the clutch directly to the battery. But I don't want to fry anything. 3 more beers and I'm doing it - guaranteed.
You are a nurse. Why you always diagnosing my car issues? It's impressive.
Now you're speaking my language. That's what I had in mind. But it might have to wait until tomorrow because I already put the connection back together and it's really hard to get to.