still plenty of opportunities to fuck it up or go broke.
Sci/Tech What do you say...
- Thread starter Filthy
- Start date
Now that I'm quoting paint, I might have figured out a way to go broke. Last time I built a car was the late 90's, and it was $3-5k for a car-show worth paint job. Now the prices are starting at $10k and running north. My best friend's nephew does some pretty amazing wraps, but even that will put me out $2k.
One thing that irks me about car shows is the people who won't tell you what color they painted their car. "Oh, I was just mixing something up in the shop and Jesus came to me in a vision and mixed colors. When I came to it was 3 days later and the final clear coat was curing." Fuck You.
You did 40 sample shots and you've memorized the die batch of every color you used.
I really loved this truck, but the custom shop that built it gave me the brush-off about the color.
But beautiful color, and I dug the flat gray accents.
Looking around, I'm leaning toward something like the Nordic Gray Metallic on an Acura NSX, charcoal gray - green, depending on light. Probably a two-tone, but a monochrome might look better if a replace the chrome with copper or rosegold. Both of the pics below are the same color. Looks a little greener sunlight. Pretty sure they're going to want $$$ for the paint, but I think a good paint guy can get it close enough with an off-the-shelf mix and the right layering.
sorry for the lack of updates, summer in PHX is not garage season.
at least it's not until I get garage AC installed...but I ordered headers and mocked up the engine bay with electronics. Headers will be here next week, they were back-ordered because TTI was doing a re-design...so I'll be (optimistically) sliding the engine in for a test fit on the new K-Member next weekend. Nothing is getting bolted in, but I want to see how much firewall I need to cut out for the new trans.
and I decided to take a sabbatical from work, so I'll be home as a full-time stay-at-home-Dad for Nov-Dec.
My 6 yo is getting in to working on cars, she wanted to help me change the brakes on the minivan before vacation. I think she's going to be pretty impressed to see me and 'Grandpa' bolting in a powerplant.
at least it's not until I get garage AC installed...but I ordered headers and mocked up the engine bay with electronics. Headers will be here next week, they were back-ordered because TTI was doing a re-design...so I'll be (optimistically) sliding the engine in for a test fit on the new K-Member next weekend. Nothing is getting bolted in, but I want to see how much firewall I need to cut out for the new trans.
and I decided to take a sabbatical from work, so I'll be home as a full-time stay-at-home-Dad for Nov-Dec.
My 6 yo is getting in to working on cars, she wanted to help me change the brakes on the minivan before vacation. I think she's going to be pretty impressed to see me and 'Grandpa' bolting in a powerplant.
sorry for the lack of updates, but trying to work with some parts that didn't quite fit.
Built a little cradle dolly for the motor, so I can move it in and out by myself...motor fits on the K-member, and the K-member bolted right up without the engine, but now one of holes is a tiny bit off from the K-member to the frame. I'll probably just grab it by the motor and pick it up, see if it jostles where it's supposed to go.
exhaust flanges on the headers didn't line up with the bolt holes. The driver side was off in length and height, the passenger could be fixed with a 5s touch of the Dremel. Guessing that the welder was in a hurry to get parts out and didn't let it cool enough. TTI mentioned that when they get headers returned shipped, they come back fucked. So I offered to have my SIL drive the old part back to CA. She lives just up the street, so they were VERY appreciative, and offered to send me a new passenger side header.
Going to get a sample spray can of the color I'm considering when I run errands today.
Next step is laying in the ABS and electronics in the engine bay, then getting out the spark-maker and cutting the trans tunnel. Then I'll take some measurements and start on fabbing the new one. Dad's been making original parts with his 3D printer and TinkerCAD s/w, so he's pushing for the job of prototyping the new console. smh. i created a monster.
ABS or PLA plastic. He can do solid ABS if he wants, and finish it with acetone so it looks injection-molded.
Console is going to be a key part of the interior, especially if I do 60/40 buckets or electric seats.
interesting
I only know ABS as drain line plumbing plastic
can't wait for more updates on your project...I love old cars
this is from a full-custom 74 Duster. I don't like the colors, and I'll have a column shifter, but I think they did a good job of blending 1974 with a modern interior. My dad wants to make the brown and white upholstered part that sits on the tunnel.
that stuff is 3d printed? Looks great, even the diarrhea brown
this is from a full-custom 74 Duster. I don't like the colors, and I'll have a column shifter, but I think they did a good job of blending 1974 with a modern interior. My dad wants to make the brown and white upholstered part that sits on the tunnel.
I like it
they did this one old school, with sheet metal and a guy with a couple decades of experience massaging metal.
the car is really beautiful, it's called Kasper and was at SEMA last year. check it out. It's just not a style I'd do for myself.
so I ended up getting two colors after doing a little online looking in to 'emerging color trends in automobiles'. I like green, and green is getting hot again, so I grabbed the Deep Hunter Green from Bullitt Mustang to try against the Nord Grey Metallic off the NSX that I like. They look about the same on my cell phone camera, but you can see the difference on the cars. Laying in some pieces for mock-up today, I'll try and remember to grab pics.
i shot the rattle cans of my paint samples on to a piece of steel to see how they look with copper pipes.
Good News: Both look super-dope.
Bad News: Now I don't know which one I like more.
i shot the rattle cans of my paint samples on to a piece of steel to see how they look with copper pipes.
Good News: Both look super-dope.
Bad News: Now I don't know which one I like more.
I figured the OEM brake booster wasn't going to fit, the engine bay on the Duster is > 8" narrower than the Charger. But now I know that a 7" brake booster will fit and will not look great. Mocked it up with a paper plate and a tissue box to approximate single and double stage booster with Master Cylinder. The other option is to do a mini booster/MC, but those run > $1k. If I do that, it's because this car is a keeper.
This the issue. I'll be moving a smaller version of this assembly up and towards the fender. I'll have to do a little customization on the brake pedal to get it to drop down where it should and still fit right in the engine bay.
AC compressor on the Driver side and Alternator on the Passenger side sit below the head on this motor, so I'll have plenty of space to mount the ABS pump. There's a whole bunch of different mounts for this assembly, but it looks like as long as it's metal and has dampeners on it, it'll work. This is another spot for Dad to print me a prototype out of plastic before I have it fabricated out of metal.
The pump is square, so this is how it will sit against the fender, with the electrical connector towards the firewall - like the pic above.
Another challenge is find a spot for the computer. I want it to stay as near to the Charger installation as possible, but the drip line in an old car is lower...so I lose a lot of valuable firewall space in the corners. I can mount to the other side, in the passenger compartment, but then I have to work under a dash. And that sucks.
Mocked it up with a paper plate and a tissue box to approximate single and double stage booster with Master Cylinder. The other option is to do a mini booster/MC, but those run > $1k. If I do that, it's because this car is a keeper.
This the issue. I'll be moving a smaller version of this assembly up and towards the fender. I'll have to do a little customization on the brake pedal to get it to drop down where it should and still fit right in the engine bay.
AC compressor on the Driver side and Alternator on the Passenger side sit below the head on this motor, so I'll have plenty of space to mount the ABS pump. There's a whole bunch of different mounts for this assembly, but it looks like as long as it's metal and has dampeners on it, it'll work. This is another spot for Dad to print me a prototype out of plastic before I have it fabricated out of metal.
The pump is square, so this is how it will sit against the fender, with the electrical connector towards the firewall - like the pic above.
Another challenge is find a spot for the computer. I want it to stay as near to the Charger installation as possible, but the drip line in an old car is lower...so I lose a lot of valuable firewall space in the corners. I can mount to the other side, in the passenger compartment, but then I have to work under a dash. And that sucks.
i spent a lot of time today going back and forth between the garage and the computer...made a couple phone calls to Tilton and Speedway to talk brake systems. When I was laying stuff out to measure, it dawned on me that I could do a better job of showing the problem.
On the left is the Master Cylinder and Reservoir, in the middle is a dual chamber Brake Booster, and the pedal assembly is on the right.
Between the booster and the pedal bracket is the firewall
This is what they look like all put together.
Here's the inside of the car. The big honkin' assembly on the passenger seat is the tilt steering column. I want to put that in the middle, and the shaft goes to the steering rack (under the engine) through that hole just to the right of the old brake pedal.
If I move the assembly up and towards the fender, then the brake pedal moves. That is not good. I could get a floor mount pedal assembly, or other hanging pedal assembly, but then my fly-by-wire gas pedal and brake sensors are a whole new engineering challenge. Another option is to bolt the pedal assembly in the new spot, and then extend the bracket and pedal back down and to the right. Not hard, but a lot of trial and error to get everything in the right place. And laying under a dash all day sucks.
. I did look up other parts, and there's a possibility of using a single-stage booster (same diameter, half as long) from a Chrysler Sebring or Dodge Avenger. But ABS systems push around 1k PSI, so the parts need to match. That requires a trip to the junkyard and/or the parts store, but what else are you going to do with a Saturday?
Also looks like the factory A/C plenum will have to come out if I want to keep the computers in the same spots. <sigh>
On the left is the Master Cylinder and Reservoir, in the middle is a dual chamber Brake Booster, and the pedal assembly is on the right.
Between the booster and the pedal bracket is the firewall
This is what they look like all put together.
Here's the inside of the car. The big honkin' assembly on the passenger seat is the tilt steering column. I want to put that in the middle, and the shaft goes to the steering rack (under the engine) through that hole just to the right of the old brake pedal.
If I move the assembly up and towards the fender, then the brake pedal moves. That is not good. I could get a floor mount pedal assembly, or other hanging pedal assembly, but then my fly-by-wire gas pedal and brake sensors are a whole new engineering challenge. Another option is to bolt the pedal assembly in the new spot, and then extend the bracket and pedal back down and to the right. Not hard, but a lot of trial and error to get everything in the right place. And laying under a dash all day sucks.
. I did look up other parts, and there's a possibility of using a single-stage booster (same diameter, half as long) from a Chrysler Sebring or Dodge Avenger. But ABS systems push around 1k PSI, so the parts need to match. That requires a trip to the junkyard and/or the parts store, but what else are you going to do with a Saturday?
Also looks like the factory A/C plenum will have to come out if I want to keep the computers in the same spots. <sigh>
A little update: a friend owns an automobile A/C shop in town, I reached out to him to help with the next stage.
Since the A/C and ABS both use high-pressure lines, and he has an open lift (in the winter), we're going to chat about getting the ABS lines and the A/C plenum plumbed. Hopefully it works with his schedule and it's something he's in to.
I set my dad up with polycarbonate and ABS (the plastic, not anti-lock braking) printing capability, so I think we'll be able to make a plenum that accommodates the computer.
I also have the engine/transmission mounted on bitchin motor cradle that will allow me to move the engine/trans/headers/etc around in the engine bay. I did the math and because the new engine is lighter and the new transmission is heavier than the original setup, I can move the engine forward 2.11" and not effect the weight distribution. This means I should be able to get a single stage brake booster in place of the dual stage. Shouldn't be an issue with stopping, as the Dodge Avenger that the single-stage comes out of is actually heavier than the Duster. The only issue I can foresee is maybe the oil pan/steering rack achieve interference.
Meanwhile, I decided to see how the two colors I'm considering look on actual "stuff" with curves and corners. So I cleaned 300k miles of Kansas road grime off the trans (and picked a lot of metal splinters from the wire wheels out of my flesh), primered it, and laid the Titanium Grey and Dark Highland Green on opposite sides of it. For comparison, I put a strip of "Engine Black" down the middle.
oh shiny!
the grey looks correct, and I dig it. But the Green just looks like black...nothing like the Mustang it came from
so a trip to my custom-paint mix shop is in order. I hit up my uncle in IA, his buddy has been in the DuPont calendar, and he looked up the actual mix (not just the paint code) and I'm going to see if I can get another rattle can to try.
Since the A/C and ABS both use high-pressure lines, and he has an open lift (in the winter), we're going to chat about getting the ABS lines and the A/C plenum plumbed. Hopefully it works with his schedule and it's something he's in to.
I set my dad up with polycarbonate and ABS (the plastic, not anti-lock braking) printing capability, so I think we'll be able to make a plenum that accommodates the computer.
I also have the engine/transmission mounted on bitchin motor cradle that will allow me to move the engine/trans/headers/etc around in the engine bay. I did the math and because the new engine is lighter and the new transmission is heavier than the original setup, I can move the engine forward 2.11" and not effect the weight distribution. This means I should be able to get a single stage brake booster in place of the dual stage. Shouldn't be an issue with stopping, as the Dodge Avenger that the single-stage comes out of is actually heavier than the Duster. The only issue I can foresee is maybe the oil pan/steering rack achieve interference.
Meanwhile, I decided to see how the two colors I'm considering look on actual "stuff" with curves and corners. So I cleaned 300k miles of Kansas road grime off the trans (and picked a lot of metal splinters from the wire wheels out of my flesh), primered it, and laid the Titanium Grey and Dark Highland Green on opposite sides of it. For comparison, I put a strip of "Engine Black" down the middle.
oh shiny!
the grey looks correct, and I dig it. But the Green just looks like black...nothing like the Mustang it came from
so a trip to my custom-paint mix shop is in order. I hit up my uncle in IA, his buddy has been in the DuPont calendar, and he looked up the actual mix (not just the paint code) and I'm going to see if I can get another rattle can to try.