You & I would be complimentary tradesmen. I obviously have a bit of an electrical background but plumbing was my go to skill along with welding.
I’m about the worst carpenter that’s ever walked the face of the Earth 😂
I’m about the worst carpenter that’s ever walked the face of the Earth 😂
I like expansion fittings for Pex
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ko12u7WEwp0
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyDqu5K8DeY
I’ve done a bit of pex. Went to a class for it from wersbo back in 04 or so. It’s faster to install & quieter in service. I’ve never had a failure but I just trust copper more. Plus there’s more pride when finished with a copper header than a pex bundle of snakes 😉
This was my last small copper project from a year or two back. Had been about 15yrs since I’d done any plumbing by that point.
3 valve bypass for water softener in garage. Not a big job by any means but only pic in my phone of anything I’d done lol. Little bit rusty on actual work these days but it works & doesn’t leak, so there’s that lol
3 valve bypass for water softener in garage. Not a big job by any means but only pic in my phone of anything I’d done lol. Little bit rusty on actual work these days but it works & doesn’t leak, so there’s that lol
Sure you saved money. Most shops use bulk oil for cars/trucks, even dealerships. If you used decent oil/filter, the charge at a shop for “synthetic” plus the cabin air filter would be $200 or more.
5qt jugs of synthetic Kirkland, Supertech, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Mobile, Castrol, etc are all $17-36. Plenty of solid filters out there for $3-5 & the top shelf filters like the Fram Endurance is $13. Your cabin air filter is only $15ish.
Hell, I use VERY high end, boutique, oil & spend less than most places charge for bulk or OTC name brand oil.
Just so you’re aware, Wix was purchased by Mann a little while back. Using their old filters are great but the new ones, not so much. Similar to the Fram Ultra(gold can XG series). They used to use great media & be wire backed, no more. Amsoil used to use Donaldson Syntec media, no more. Now the Amsoil, Royal Purple & Fram Endurance line are all the exact same filters, made by Champ Labs here in the states. The Endurance is the cheapest at Walmart for $13.
FWIW, I was a Wix user for a long time prior to the buyout. When Amsoil contracted with Donaldson I preferred those as we used that same media at one of the power plants I was at. That is awesome media & if there’s a Donaldson Syntec media filter for your application, I’d highly recommend it to this day.
I heard about Fram which is why I went Mobil 1.
Had not heard of WIX. I did notice that my previous Wix air filter was stamped CHINA. This new one was stamped MEXICO. Thanks for the info.
Today I bled manhood as usual.
After slicing my finger open changing the portaband blade, I decided it was healing too quick, so I smashed it with a mallot.
I've decided just to leave the first aid station open permanently.
After slicing my finger open changing the portaband blade, I decided it was healing too quick, so I smashed it with a mallot.
I've decided just to leave the first aid station open permanently.
Bag of Rice
and Be Careful
No windex?
I don't like the smell
I was a big fan of M1 Euro 0/40 & 5/40 until the new SP rating. With SP, they eliminated the group v esters that added solvency to clean sludge, carbon & varnish. Had a bunch of calcium so wasn’t great for a DI engine but any MPI, TBI or carburetor setup would have been great on that oil.
If you ever see any at a Walmart or parts store & it’s rated SN or older, buy it on the spot. Hands down the best value out there, at least it was prior to the new SP stuff.
What brand oil for a 5.7 '21 Toyota engine?
Gonna change it this week.
The dealership/manual insists on some super thin oil but I disagree and want something thicker.
If you’re sticking to the 5k mi oci then Valvoline Advanced synthetic (grey jug)5/30 is solid & around $26-28 for a 5qt jug.
Same price would be M1 0/30 ESP. Solid oil that still has some group v esters in it.
The valvoline has a higher HTHS so will likely not be as susceptible to shearing in and might hold up a bit better in summer if you’re in a hot area. The M1 would be a better winter choice between the
Grab either (or castrol or pennzoil), they’ll all work out well. Stepping up to a 5/40 won’t hurt anything either besides about 0.5% of mpg’s but the 5/40 M1 doesn’t have esters anymore for cleaning. The 0/30 still does, for now.
In that Toyota you could run Kirkland syn 5/30 and be fine as well
Thanks, I will read up on those and the group v esters
I barely gets below 25f here so I don't need no thin oils since I get low gas mileage anyways, plus I tow...what is the need for better gas mileage lol
I'm always towing, 2-4K lbs
Does get plenty of work in 80-95+ degree Oregon Summers
I think you are correct, that engine gets different oil in other countries as per Toyota manual
The US manual recommendation of thin oil is to get super small % MPG gain and maybe for the guys in the extreme north(Canada?) that are in super cold climates
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I never mentioned it but yes, N. American CAFE bullshit. Nowhere else in the world does Toyota mandate 0/20 for that engine, nowhere. Same for other manufacturers as well.
You’re a perceptive future Idahoan 😂
