What manly sh!t have you done today?

[okiebug]

1 owner, good carfax, but I have to go to Washington, drive it to the coast for a week then have it shipped up here.

 

[Uncle Tom Doug]

damn, yeah, that is more work than it is for me. I remove the fill plug, then the drain plug. The only real annoyance is using the hand pump, which resembles a soap dispenser, to fill it up.
Next weekend, I will do the power steering, coolant, and transmission fluid too

I'm not sure what weight you need, but these flex-fill containers made it super easy to refill mine:

 

[Fan_of_Fanboys]

I'm not sure what weight you need, but these flex-fill containers made it super easy to refill mine:

Damn I'll look for that next time. I use 75W85 by Redline. That would cut out 70% of the job though

 

[Fan_of_Fanboys]

I also bought a new slant razor with an open comb. Only knicked myself once using it, not bad

 

[rmenergy]

Ah, yours actually has a drain plug and you just replace the crush washers. On my F-150, you have to remove the entire cover to drain it. At least with the factory cover on it.

Once you’ve cleaned the pumpkin with the cover off just drive it a while then use a vacuum pump to suck out the gear oil through the fill port. I only pull the cover once every 90-100k miles but change every 30k (ish).

Do the same with the transmission only I do that cold & replace with the same amount I removed.

 

[rmenergy]

Damn I'll look for that next time. I use 75W85 by Redline. That would cut out 70% of the job though

If you tow or live in a hot climate, raising the viscosity a bit won’t hurt & the higher HT/HS value will protect better under heavy heat & load. It will likely cost a fraction of a mpg (like 0.1mpg) raising to a 90 or 110. The cold flow 75 value will remain constant

 

[rmenergy]

If you tow or live in a hot climate, raising the viscosity a bit won’t hurt & the higher HT/HS value will protect better under heavy heat & load. It will likely cost a fraction of a mpg (like 0.1mpg) raising to a 90 or 110. The cold flow 75 value will remain constant

Adding to this point, look into the viscosity values Toyota recommends for all your fluids in markets outside of North America. You might be shocked what they recommend in places like Australia. Your 0w-20 engine oil here will be anywhere from 5W-30 to 20w-50 over there. The lower viscosity oils will provide better mpg for US & Canada cafe standards but are more susceptible to loss of film strength if hit with fuel dilution or mechanical shearing.

Redline makes a very solid product though so don’t worry about much using it. In my F150, I stuck with the factory 75w-85 for the front differential & use 75w-140 in the rear as that was the updated factory spec. Original factory spec was 75w-90. The original spec would be fine if the truck isn’t used for heavy loads & a full synthetic oil was used but the factory stuff is a syn blend.

Funny fact is that the supplier of the motorcraft oils is Conoco who also owns Redline. Redline also recently closed their CA refinery & moved to TN

 

[Uncle Tom Doug]

Once you’ve cleaned the pumpkin with the cover off just drive it a while then use a vacuum pump to suck out the gear oil through the fill port. I only pull the cover once every 90-100k miles but change every 30k (ish).

Do the same with the transmission only I do that cold & replace with the same amount I removed.

That was the first time I've changed the rear diff oil on this truck and I've had it since 2009, I bought it used with 25,000 miles on it. It had 185,000+ miles on it at the time of the change. The gear oil still smelled and looked fine; I couldn't believe it. There was barley any sludge, just super thin layer on the bottom and there was barely any sparkle from metal. All the gear teeth looked great, too. I rarely ever pull a trailer or haul really heavy loads in the bed, so I'm sure that has helped with the longevity. If I towed or hauled heavy all the time, I'd definitely be on your schedule. The next time I change it, I'll be replacing the cover with one that has a built-in drain plug.

 

[okiebug]

Adding to this point, look into the viscosity values Toyota recommends for all your fluids in markets outside of North America. You might be shocked what they recommend in places like Australia. Your 0w-20 engine oil here will be anywhere from 5W-30 to 20w-50 over there. The lower viscosity oils will provide better mpg for US & Canada cafe standards but are more susceptible to loss of film strength if hit with fuel dilution or mechanical shearing.

Redline makes a very solid product though so don’t worry about much using it. In my F150, I stuck with the factory 75w-85 for the front differential & use 75w-140 in the rear as that was the updated factory spec. Original factory spec was 75w-90. The original spec would be fine if the truck isn’t used for heavy loads & a full synthetic oil was used but the factory stuff is a syn blend.

Funny fact is that the supplier of the motorcraft oils is Conoco who also owns Redline. Redline also recently closed their CA refinery & moved to TN

I was going to say this exact same thing.

 

[rmenergy]

That was the first time I've changed the rear diff oil on this truck and I've had it since 2009, I bought it used with 25,000 miles on it. It had 185,000+ miles on it at the time of the change. The gear oil still smelled and looked fine; I couldn't believe it. There was barley any sludge, just super thin layer on the bottom and there was barely any sparkle from metal. All the gear teeth looked great, too. I rarely ever pull a trailer or haul really heavy loads in the bed, so I'm sure that has helped with the longevity. If I towed or hauled heavy all the time, I'd definitely be on your schedule. The next time I change it, I'll be replacing the cover with one that has a built-in drain plug.

If you have an open differential or the electronic locking diff then no friction modifier is needed and there's no clutches to worry about burning up. Hence the longer drain intervals with no issues (except conditioning seals & possible mechanical shearing). Also, if you drive through water up to the axle seals it's a good idea to change the fluid

 

[Uncle Tom Doug]

If you have an open differential or the electronic locking diff then no friction modifier is needed and there's no clutches to worry about burning up. Hence the longer drain intervals with no issues (except conditioning seals & possible mechanical shearing). Also, if you drive through water up to the axle seals it's a good idea to change the fluid

I had to add a bottle of friction modifier.

 

[rmenergy]

I had to add a bottle of friction modifier.

So you have the limited slip differential. I try to stay on a 30k service interval with those just to keep the clutches in good shape

 

[okiebug]

Rmenergy schooling us in advanced automotive maintenance is seriously manly in and of itself.

 

[rmenergy]

Rmenergy schooling us in advanced automotive maintenance is seriously manly in and of itself.

I’m big on maintenance & keeping things a long time. Ease of maintenance modifications as well. Did this to my F150 for easy transmission services:
-PPE pan with drain plug & additional 4.25qt capacity
-B&M dipstick so I can check level & refill from the engine compartment
-Canton billet remote filter mount & synthetic media filter so I don’t have to drop the pan(rear 4 bolts are huge pita since I have to drop the exhaust to access)