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Freeloading Rusty

Here comes Rover, sniffin’ at your ass
Jan 11, 2016
26,916
26,589
I was late putting them in the ground but they’re looking great so far. No issues with bugs or disease either. Topped them twice but they keeping going up over the fence.

View attachment 44187

Same plot from opposite side.

View attachment 44188

Planted May 29th

View attachment 44189

Stains are Mimosa, Blueberry Grape Vine, Northern Lights and Sour Diesel. Nothing but BCs fantastic air, sun and water has gone into them. Next year I’ll do two plants per plot as four is crowded.
Looking good! Watch out for powdery mildew with those plants so crowded as we end out summer.

Trim that shit down, popcorn buds ain’t worth the work to trim and dry/process.
 

Rambo John J

Baker Team
First 100
Jan 17, 2015
75,419
74,558
I was late putting them in the ground but they’re looking great so far. No issues with bugs or disease either. Topped them twice but they keeping going up over the fence.

View attachment 44187

Same plot from opposite side.

View attachment 44188

Planted May 29th

View attachment 44189

Stains are Mimosa, Blueberry Grape Vine, Northern Lights and Sour Diesel. Nothing but BCs fantastic air, sun and water has gone into them. Next year I’ll do two plants per plot as four is crowded.
Looking real good pothead


gonna get heavy when flowering

time to think of support for that weight
 
M

member 3289

Guest
What do you mean by trim back?

I broke up the root ball like you would do when transferring any other plant, but I didn’t trim anything.

did I fuck something up here?
If there was enough space in the pot, you're fine.You generally want to trim the roots back a little but the plant didn't look too root bound so it won't be a problem.

You'll wanna trim them back a little next time you repot. The plant will probably lose 25-50% of its foliage and look depressed for a few weeks, but it'll rebound.

 

Grateful Dude

TMMAC Addict
May 30, 2016
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If there was enough space in the pot, you're fine.You generally want to trim the roots back a little but the plant didn't look too root bound so it won't be a problem.

You'll wanna trim them back a little next time you repot. The plant will probably lose 25-50% of its foliage and look depressed for a few weeks, but it'll rebound.

Thanks, I’ll take a look at this.

like you said, I don’t think it was too root bound. Which is what I was hoping to avoid by swapping it over to a bigger pot.
 
M

member 3289

Guest
Thanks, I’ll take a look at this.

like you said, I don’t think it was too root bound. Which is what I was hoping to avoid by swapping it over to a bigger pot.
What kind of soil did you use? Also remember to water only once a week. Less (often) is more with citrus when it comes to watering.
 

Grateful Dude

TMMAC Addict
May 30, 2016
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What kind of soil did you use? Also remember to water only once a week. Less (often) is more with citrus when it comes to watering.
I just used the miracle grow cactus/citrus/succulent mix. It took most of two 8 quart bags to fill the remainder of the new pot. So it’s at least has some more room. I haven’t fertilized in a while, but maybe I should wait as this soil says it has some in it.

the plant has been looking healthy, but it just seemed to stall out growing. It’s also been hot as fuck, and lots of stuff here goes summer dormant. But citrus is usually good with lots of sun. And something has been eating leaves, but I’m not sure what. Aphids are really bad right now, but they haven’t gotten to this yet. And I murdered a bunch of those today, I sprayed down a few things that were infested.
 
M

member 3289

Guest
I just used the miracle grow cactus/citrus/succulent mix. It took most of two 8 quart bags to fill the remainder of the new pot. So it’s at least has some more room. I haven’t fertilized in a while, but maybe I should wait as this soil says it has some in it.

the plant has been looking healthy, but it just seemed to stall out growing. It’s also been hot as fuck, and lots of stuff here goes summer dormant. But citrus is usually good with lots of sun. And something has been eating leaves, but I’m not sure what. Aphids are really bad right now, but they haven’t gotten to this yet. And I murdered a bunch of those today, I sprayed down a few things that were infested.
Wait a few weeks for the plant to adjust to its new pot before fertilizing. There will likely be some transplant shock and the last thing you want to do is inject the plant with nutrients when it's already stressed. Regardless of when you do it, it will be your last feeding of the year anyway (fertilize again in February or whenever the threat of frost is completely gone) so there's really no reason to do it sooner than mid September. When the stress-related leaf drop stops, it'll be ok to fertilize.

As far as whatever is eating the leaves, examine them closely for caterpillars. Multiple moth and butterfly species feed on citrus leaves and the fuckers are masters of hiding in plain sight. It might also be katydids. Like many caterpillars, they feed after dark so you rarely see them. I've killed 3 that I've caught on my plant. Get a good neem oil with instructions that call for you to mix it with a small amount of dish soap (helps the oil stick onto the leaves for longer than a day). Spray both sides of all leaves at dawn or dusk. Actually all 3 times I've caught katydids on my tree it's because I was spraying the neem and the oil + soap suds weighed them down so much they couldn't fly away.

Here's the one I use:

20210822_004914.jpg
 

Rambo John J

Baker Team
First 100
Jan 17, 2015
75,419
74,558
Wait a few weeks for the plant to adjust to its new pot before fertilizing. There will likely be some transplant shock and the last thing you want to do is inject the plant with nutrients when it's already stressed. Regardless of when you do it, it will be your last feeding of the year anyway (fertilize again in February or whenever the threat of frost is completely gone) so there's really no reason to do it sooner than mid September. When the stress-related leaf drop stops, it'll be ok to fertilize.

As far as whatever is eating the leaves, examine them closely for caterpillars. Multiple moth and butterfly species feed on citrus leaves and the fuckers are masters of hiding in plain sight. It might also be katydids. Like many caterpillars, they feed after dark so you rarely see them. I've killed 3 that I've caught on my plant. Get a good neem oil with instructions that call for you to mix it with a small amount of dish soap (helps the oil stick onto the leaves for longer than a day). Spray both sides of all leaves at dawn or dusk. Actually all 3 times I've caught katydids on my tree it's because I was spraying the neem and the oil + soap suds weighed them down so much they couldn't fly away.

Here's the one I use:

View attachment 44225
Neem can be very useful
A very good tool
 

Grateful Dude

TMMAC Addict
May 30, 2016
8,929
14,275
Wait a few weeks for the plant to adjust to its new pot before fertilizing. There will likely be some transplant shock and the last thing you want to do is inject the plant with nutrients when it's already stressed. Regardless of when you do it, it will be your last feeding of the year anyway (fertilize again in February or whenever the threat of frost is completely gone) so there's really no reason to do it sooner than mid September. When the stress-related leaf drop stops, it'll be ok to fertilize.

As far as whatever is eating the leaves, examine them closely for caterpillars. Multiple moth and butterfly species feed on citrus leaves and the fuckers are masters of hiding in plain sight. It might also be katydids. Like many caterpillars, they feed after dark so you rarely see them. I've killed 3 that I've caught on my plant. Get a good neem oil with instructions that call for you to mix it with a small amount of dish soap (helps the oil stick onto the leaves for longer than a day). Spray both sides of all leaves at dawn or dusk. Actually all 3 times I've caught katydids on my tree it's because I was spraying the neem and the oil + soap suds weighed them down so much they couldn't fly away.

Here's the one I use:

View attachment 44225
Cool thanks. We certainly have lots of butterflies and moths here, and I hadn’t thought about katydids. Whatever it is, I haven’t seen it yet. But I also haven’t looked all that hard. Aphids are my main issue in my yard right now, I hate those motherfuckers raining down sticky shit everywhere. But not a single aphid on the citrus, so I got that going for me at least.
 

Shinkicker

For what it's worth
Jan 30, 2016
10,406
13,878
Wait a few weeks for the plant to adjust to its new pot before fertilizing. There will likely be some transplant shock and the last thing you want to do is inject the plant with nutrients when it's already stressed. Regardless of when you do it, it will be your last feeding of the year anyway (fertilize again in February or whenever the threat of frost is completely gone) so there's really no reason to do it sooner than mid September. When the stress-related leaf drop stops, it'll be ok to fertilize.

As far as whatever is eating the leaves, examine them closely for caterpillars. Multiple moth and butterfly species feed on citrus leaves and the fuckers are masters of hiding in plain sight. It might also be katydids. Like many caterpillars, they feed after dark so you rarely see them. I've killed 3 that I've caught on my plant. Get a good neem oil with instructions that call for you to mix it with a small amount of dish soap (helps the oil stick onto the leaves for longer than a day). Spray both sides of all leaves at dawn or dusk. Actually all 3 times I've caught katydids on my tree it's because I was spraying the neem and the oil + soap suds weighed them down so much they couldn't fly away.

Here's the one I use:

View attachment 44225
Do you use fertilizer that soon if you use miracle gro soil?

And have you used banana water when you are ready for the tree to produce fruit? My aunt uses it and swears it's the best.
 
M

member 3289

Guest
Do you use fertilizer that soon if you use miracle gro soil?

And have you used banana water when you are ready for the tree to produce fruit? My aunt uses it and swears it's the best.
I use Tapla's 5-1-1 mix for my potted citrus. I was going to recommend it to him when I switched last September but I wanted to see if it was as good as everyone says. It most definitely is. Light, airy, and quick-draining - ideal for citrus.

Regardless of the soil, though, I would wait at least 4 weeks if I'm being honest ( Grateful Dude @Grateful Dude), but it would depend on whether or not the tree clearly recovers from the inevitable transplant shock. I might just forego fertilizing it this late in the growing season if I was in zone 8 or lower. If the tree recovers and starts pushing out new leaf shoots by the end of September, fertilize. If not, call it a season and wait until February to fertilize again.

I haven't heard of banana water. My first lemon tree I was able to get it to the fruiting stage using chemical fertilizer.

Worm castings are a great non-nitrogen heavy organic fertilizer if you wanna avoid the overabundant leaf bloom. Some say the castings tea is better, but because it's a liquid and doesn't remain in the soil for long, I wouldn't think so.
 

Grateful Dude

TMMAC Addict
May 30, 2016
8,929
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I use Tapla's 5-1-1 mix for my potted citrus. I was going to recommend it to him when I switched last September but I wanted to see if it was as good as everyone says. It most definitely is. Light, airy, and quick-draining - ideal for citrus.

Regardless of the soil, though, I would wait at least 4 weeks if I'm being honest ( Grateful Dude @Grateful Dude), but it would depend on whether or not the tree clearly recovers from the inevitable transplant shock. I might just forego fertilizing it this late in the growing season if I was in zone 8 or lower. If the tree recovers and starts pushing out new leaf shoots by the end of September, fertilize. If not, call it a season and wait until February to fertilize again.

I haven't heard of banana water. My first lemon tree I was able to get it to the fruiting stage using chemical fertilizer.

Worm castings are a great non-nitrogen heavy organic fertilizer if you wanna avoid the overabundant leaf bloom. Some say the castings tea is better, but because it's a liquid and doesn't remain in the soil for long, I wouldn't think so.
I really only chose this miracle grow soil out of convenience, as it’s what’s available at Home Depot. Seems to work fine, but I’m sure there are better options. I’ve kept this one in a pot so far because I had a full tree that was about 8 years old, and then we had two hard freezes one winter and it was completely nuked. And I grew this one from seed. This one has never flowered yet, but with our tree it never fruited unless I gave it citrus fertilizer (like what you recommended to me a while back). But I’ve gone pretty gentle with that while this has been growing and finally getting bigger.

here are the two types of leaf damage I get. One just eats the leaves, and then something else eats a line across the leaves in this arc pattern. It stops at that point, but then those leaves die. Overall it looks pretty healthy though. From the top of the soil, it is 32” tall now
5C879413-63D5-486B-9212-0058B8D4EDA2.jpeg
5015C0E5-DEB5-47AD-9247-CF31D9B6EE66.jpeg
 

La Paix

Fuck this place
First 100
Jan 14, 2015
38,273
64,364
Looking good! Watch out for powdery mildew with those plants so crowded as we end out summer.

Trim that shit down, popcorn buds ain’t worth the work to trim and dry/process.
Agree on all that. Found time today to thin out the shit. Gonna grab some stakes and support them before days out. No mildew but as I posted next season I’m giving them much more room. First year doing outdoor, lots to learn.

91B32054-B100-4427-B38C-E357A01A82EA.jpeg

44D30DDA-910B-4777-9BA3-524C803900BC.jpeg