What manly sh!t have you done today?

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jason73

Auslander Raus
First 100
Jan 15, 2015
74,434
136,703
the Rocky mountains are a trip . its like some dudes went up there 150 years ago and built a town where they get 10ft of snow in the winter and the mountain tries to kill them every year . then they came up with the solution of lets fire a howitzer up there and knock the snow down
 

jason73

Auslander Raus
First 100
Jan 15, 2015
74,434
136,703
This is the gun they have on display on the west side of Roger's Pass. There are unexploded ordinance signs aling the highway. This one is a dud but it is basically the same kind they still use to this day20240623_160821.jpg
 

Rambo John J

Baker Team
First 100
Jan 17, 2015
75,324
74,465
Changed the Oil on the 5.7 Tundra engine
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This change was only 1,100 miles after the Dealer had put some 0w-20 in, was surprised how dark the oil was already...only fine fine metal in pan.


Thicker oil pretty much eliminated that tick that the Tundra 5.7 has.

rmenergy @rmenergy , it was between Mobile 1 5w-40 and this Castrol euro 5-40. Wasn't sure what to choose, just had some time this afternoon and stopped by a Walmart.

Will put something else in in 3K miles or so.
 
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Rambo John J

Baker Team
First 100
Jan 17, 2015
75,324
74,465
Also changed the rear Diff lubricant.
Used this. Toyota doesn't even carry their own manual specified 75w-85 here because of cost, dealership told me they use a generic.
Tundra forum told me I could use something thicker but I just used this one because it seemed of decent quality and convenience.
1720226762244.png


Changed it because I noticed this.
20240628_085852.jpeg
20240628_085812.jpeg
So I drained it out after checking the level(wasn't low), vehicle is at 21K and dealer recommends 30K change.
Torqued the diff nuts(50ft/lbs) and fill and drain nuts(36ft/lbs) to spec.
Cleaned that seal area with brake cleaner and will monitor for further seeps.

Found this on the drain plug.
20240705_173047.jpeg
Has probably been stuck to the magnetic drain plug for 21K miles. Machining debris?
Only a few super fines in the oil drain pan.

This truck looks mint but has a totaled title due to frame damage that you need a good eye to notice...so it likely is off of warranty if they check up on it. I'm fine with trying thicker oils and all types of mods, I bought it back from insurance for 19.5K.
 

Papi Chingon

Domesticated Hombre
Oct 19, 2015
27,380
34,263
1000002028.jpg
I installed a flat trigger on my sig. It wasn't as easy as advertised and there was a work around if you didn't want to remove the trigger spring that allegedly takes 3 minutes. Well that didn't work or I was too dumb to figure it out. 30 minutes later I had a successful install. Fuck that trigger spring.
 

rmenergy

Posting Machine
Mar 27, 2021
1,193
1,743
Also changed the rear Diff lubricant.
Used this. Toyota doesn't even carry their own manual specified 75w-85 here because of cost, dealership told me they use a generic.
Tundra forum told me I could use something thicker but I just used this one because it seemed of decent quality and convenience.
View attachment 107084


Changed it because I noticed this.
View attachment 107085
View attachment 107086
So I drained it out after checking the level(wasn't low), vehicle is at 21K and dealer recommends 30K change.
Torqued the diff nuts(50ft/lbs) and fill and drain nuts(36ft/lbs) to spec.
Cleaned that seal area with brake cleaner and will monitor for further seeps.

Found this on the drain plug.
View attachment 107087
Has probably been stuck to the magnetic drain plug for 21K miles. Machining debris?
Only a few super fines in the oil drain pan.

This truck looks mint but has a totaled title due to frame damage that you need a good eye to notice...so it likely is off of warranty if they check up on it. I'm fine with trying thicker oils and all types of mods, I bought it back from insurance for 19.5K.
There's no chipped teeth on the ring & pinion I take it? Hard to tell on this small screen but are those solid or are those clumped ferrous shavings?
 

rmenergy

Posting Machine
Mar 27, 2021
1,193
1,743
Also changed the rear Diff lubricant.
Used this. Toyota doesn't even carry their own manual specified 75w-85 here because of cost, dealership told me they use a generic.
Tundra forum told me I could use something thicker but I just used this one because it seemed of decent quality and convenience.
View attachment 107084


Changed it because I noticed this.
View attachment 107085
View attachment 107086
So I drained it out after checking the level(wasn't low), vehicle is at 21K and dealer recommends 30K change.
Torqued the diff nuts(50ft/lbs) and fill and drain nuts(36ft/lbs) to spec.
Cleaned that seal area with brake cleaner and will monitor for further seeps.

Found this on the drain plug.
View attachment 107087
Has probably been stuck to the magnetic drain plug for 21K miles. Machining debris?
Only a few super fines in the oil drain pan.

This truck looks mint but has a totaled title due to frame damage that you need a good eye to notice...so it likely is off of warranty if they check up on it. I'm fine with trying thicker oils and all types of mods, I bought it back from insurance for 19.5K.
Here are some VOA's of 75/90 gear oils out there. A guy on BITOG did these tests. Two separate groups so one doesn't have brookfield or pourpoint testing but you can still see how they stack up. In all honesty though, unless you're towing heavy or going pretty far past the 30k mi change interval, it likely won't matter.

Also, that castrol 5/40 is solid stuff.

1720255495497.png

1720255517839.png

The Diff Life CC & HP Diff Life are both from High Performance Lubricants. I use the HPL engine oils in my vehicles & generator but run the Amsoil Severe Gear 75/90 in the Bronco & GMC diffs. I've used Amsoil, Valvoline & Castrol transmission fluids and all do well.
 

Rambo John J

Baker Team
First 100
Jan 17, 2015
75,324
74,465
There's no chipped teeth on the ring & pinion I take it? Hard to tell on this small screen but are those solid or are those clumped ferrous shavings?
I didn't look inside, those are 4 small individual flat thin pieces...not clumped shavings.
 

rmenergy

Posting Machine
Mar 27, 2021
1,193
1,743
I didn't look inside, those are 4 small individual flat thin pieces...not clumped shavings.
Wouldn’t be a bad idea to open up that pumpkin to inspect & reseal. Whatever bent the frame could have shocked the ring & pinion pretty badly. You don’t want a larger piece lodging between the teeth while driving or be loaded & have a cracked ring gear that fails.
 

Rambo John J

Baker Team
First 100
Jan 17, 2015
75,324
74,465
Wouldn’t be a bad idea to open up that pumpkin to inspect & reseal. Whatever bent the frame could have shocked the ring & pinion pretty badly. You don’t want a larger piece lodging between the teeth while driving or be loaded & have a cracked ring gear that fails.
I will probably do that. I assume the seal isn't to difficult to put back on.?

On a tundra forum lots of fellas report similar metal pieces on first change, but one of these pieces does look like a chip off a gear IMO.

I have an appointment with the dealer under warranty(if they don't check my title) in two weeks.
 
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rmenergy

Posting Machine
Mar 27, 2021
1,193
1,743
I will probably do that. I assume the seal isn't to difficult to put back on.?

On a tundra forum lots of fellas report similar metal pieces on first change, but one of these pieces does look like a chip off a gear IMO.

I have an appointment with the dealer under warranty(if they don't check my title) in two weeks.
It looks similar to a 9” Ford where there’s no rear cover for the diff. Cleaning the mating surfaces and resealing is the easiest part of that job. Good part is that once the driveshaft is disconnected, the pumpkin can be removed(after the axles are pulled away). That’ll allow you to inspect it closely on the floor or table.

I’ve never owned a Toyota truck so not familiar with their intricacies or common issues. If worst came to worst, you can likely swap in a junkyard rear differential
 

rmenergy

Posting Machine
Mar 27, 2021
1,193
1,743
Time to hit the sack. Finished 3rd night shift & just got back from walking the dog. One more to go then a few days off, well from paid work anyway lol
 

Papi Chingon

Domesticated Hombre
Oct 19, 2015
27,380
34,263
Tonight I replaced my suspension rods on my washer. I'd take pics, but you really can't see shit since my washing machine makes you replace them from the top down, as opposed to taking apart side panels. Got a few cuts and bruises, but got it done.
 

oldnslow

An all-around alliterative asshole
Nov 20, 2017
30
58
I assembled a kids bike today with no instruction manual. And as evidenced in this thread General - Diamonback bike part question
only had one unknown part leftover.

I may have also failed to mention in that thread that I installed the front fork backwards so when I initially test drove it the pedals kept hitting the front tire when I tried to turn.

Then I folded laundry.

Very manly today.
 

Onetrickpony

Stay gold
Nov 21, 2016
14,041
32,283
Yesterday morning I finished a 25 hour shift at work, sucking up sewage with a vactor and watching a pump all night at a collapsed sewer.

When I got home I opened my garage door and notice that there was a big gap on the right side between the bottom and second panel of the door.

I got out of my car, checked the door and found out that the bracket with the rolller had broke. I measured the part, searched the net to see where I could get the parts, dropped my kids off at daycare, went to buy the parts, got the wrong one (after I had showed them a picture with the measurements and the a clear picture of what I needed), waited to talk to the manager of the warehouse who actually knew something about what I needed, got the right parts and fixed the door.

I finally got to bed at 1:30pm. I had been awake since 5am the day before.

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