WowView attachment 106376the avalanche trails up above Golden BC
There's no chipped teeth on the ring & pinion I take it? Hard to tell on this small screen but are those solid or are those clumped ferrous shavings?Also changed the rear Diff lubricant.
Used this. Toyota doesn't even carry their own manual specified 75w-85 here because of cost, dealership told me they use a generic.
Tundra forum told me I could use something thicker but I just used this one because it seemed of decent quality and convenience.
View attachment 107084
Changed it because I noticed this.
View attachment 107085
View attachment 107086
So I drained it out after checking the level(wasn't low), vehicle is at 21K and dealer recommends 30K change.
Torqued the diff nuts(50ft/lbs) and fill and drain nuts(36ft/lbs) to spec.
Cleaned that seal area with brake cleaner and will monitor for further seeps.
Found this on the drain plug.
View attachment 107087
Has probably been stuck to the magnetic drain plug for 21K miles. Machining debris?
Only a few super fines in the oil drain pan.
This truck looks mint but has a totaled title due to frame damage that you need a good eye to notice...so it likely is off of warranty if they check up on it. I'm fine with trying thicker oils and all types of mods, I bought it back from insurance for 19.5K.
Here are some VOA's of 75/90 gear oils out there. A guy on BITOG did these tests. Two separate groups so one doesn't have brookfield or pourpoint testing but you can still see how they stack up. In all honesty though, unless you're towing heavy or going pretty far past the 30k mi change interval, it likely won't matter.Also changed the rear Diff lubricant.
Used this. Toyota doesn't even carry their own manual specified 75w-85 here because of cost, dealership told me they use a generic.
Tundra forum told me I could use something thicker but I just used this one because it seemed of decent quality and convenience.
View attachment 107084
Changed it because I noticed this.
View attachment 107085
View attachment 107086
So I drained it out after checking the level(wasn't low), vehicle is at 21K and dealer recommends 30K change.
Torqued the diff nuts(50ft/lbs) and fill and drain nuts(36ft/lbs) to spec.
Cleaned that seal area with brake cleaner and will monitor for further seeps.
Found this on the drain plug.
View attachment 107087
Has probably been stuck to the magnetic drain plug for 21K miles. Machining debris?
Only a few super fines in the oil drain pan.
This truck looks mint but has a totaled title due to frame damage that you need a good eye to notice...so it likely is off of warranty if they check up on it. I'm fine with trying thicker oils and all types of mods, I bought it back from insurance for 19.5K.
I didn't look inside, those are 4 small individual flat thin pieces...not clumped shavings.There's no chipped teeth on the ring & pinion I take it? Hard to tell on this small screen but are those solid or are those clumped ferrous shavings?
Wouldn’t be a bad idea to open up that pumpkin to inspect & reseal. Whatever bent the frame could have shocked the ring & pinion pretty badly. You don’t want a larger piece lodging between the teeth while driving or be loaded & have a cracked ring gear that fails.I didn't look inside, those are 4 small individual flat thin pieces...not clumped shavings.
At the very least, put a scope in the fill port to inspect. A few quarts of gear oil to refill is cheap for piece of mind.I didn't look inside, those are 4 small individual flat thin pieces...not clumped shavings.
I will probably do that. I assume the seal isn't to difficult to put back on.?Wouldn’t be a bad idea to open up that pumpkin to inspect & reseal. Whatever bent the frame could have shocked the ring & pinion pretty badly. You don’t want a larger piece lodging between the teeth while driving or be loaded & have a cracked ring gear that fails.
It looks similar to a 9” Ford where there’s no rear cover for the diff. Cleaning the mating surfaces and resealing is the easiest part of that job. Good part is that once the driveshaft is disconnected, the pumpkin can be removed(after the axles are pulled away). That’ll allow you to inspect it closely on the floor or table.I will probably do that. I assume the seal isn't to difficult to put back on.?
On a tundra forum lots of fellas report similar metal pieces on first change, but one of these pieces does look like a chip off a gear IMO.
I have an appointment with the dealer under warranty(if they don't check my title) in two weeks.